Bhutan, Land of the Thunder Dragon

It was effing cold last night! Our homestay rooms aren’t heated but did have cosy blankets – it was a sprint from the warm bed to the warm living room where breakfast is served. Today: scrambled eggs, pancakes, red rice, chilli.

A circuit ride around the valley is on today’s itinerary – on horrendous rocky roads! Leg 1, from homestay to monastery. As part of the Black Neck Crane festivities, there was a 50 km bike race underway. This just happened to coincide with our route so we really had to keep our eyes peeled. The lead biker blasted by us. Of the group only Roy could have possibly keep pace with him. We made our way partly up the slope and cheered a handful of cyclists on.

There was a pleasant Swiss couple that we kept running into since arriving in the valley. Today on the final ascent to the monastery I found myself walking with them up the last very steep stretch – I offered my bike to the man for a little ride since he showed interest. Saved me having to push it! They had been in Toronto last summer at the start of a north-west passage cruise…possible future trip?

Heading up to the monastery, cyclists kept whizzing by including one young woman! The finish line was at the monastery entrance where we congratulated the winner, a young American man who now lives in Bhutan.

Gangtey Monastery proper is within a courtyard similar to a Dzong design but having built in more peaceful times, was not used as such. The courtyard is the site of the annual Black Neck Crane festival which we’ll be attending tomorrow. Today some adorable kids were rehearsing – this little girl was a star!

Leg 2 was a rocky ride up on a power line access road – going up and down this stretch was equally annoying.

Our home stay host met us with a picnic lunch next to a valley temple – rice, pork&radish, veg and, as always, chillies and cheese which, as always, I passed on. Desert was apple wedges and this bitter tasting fruit which I shared with the crows.

There was a little fat boy running around pestering the host’s son, mucking about with the bikes and being generally annoying – not sure if he was with our host or with the temple. Turns out he is a certified reincarnated lama (not llama) and must be revered as such. What a life for a seven year old!

Leg 3 was a bit of rocky road and up slightly to the Black Neck Crane Sanctuary. We saw a film, conservation and sustainability exhibits and, two rescue cranes who are permanent residents. The cranes winter in the valley here arriving in late October after the potato harvest. On the second floor high power scopes are available to spy on the fields below. I can confirm that the white dots were cranes and not sheep.

It was a short ride to our home stay where we were treated to a traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath.

Dinner: beef and potatoes, tofu, egg battered courgettes and chillies. I had an “ara,” the local rice hooch, to keep the warm glow going from my bath.

Who knew turning 65 would be so awesome?!

Just when you thought you had seen the most amazing thing ever, Punakha Dzong. Beautifully situated at the confluence of two rivers, Pho Chu and Mo Chu, it served as the capital and administrative centre until 1955.

We left the Dzong and headed along the valley and up towards the heavens, this time to Pele La pass…

…but due to the steepness the last bit was on the bus.

After a coffee break at 3420m.

…and a short descent to Lawala La pass at 3250m, it was back on the bikes for a descent to Gangtey Valley.

We arrived at our farm home stay as the chill was settling in – tea and biscuits were waiting in a cosy living room with a wood stove roaring.

Accommodations are rustic but clean and comfortable – best meal of the trip so far hands down.

Karma tells us that the hotels use “tasting spice” to enhance flavour in all their food. After much discussion and google searches we discovered that this was MSG. I didn’t notice except maybe in the soups. Explains why tonight’s meal was so good.

Distance: 35.11

Elevation gain: 591 m

Calories: 913

Traffic was at a stand still still as we headed out of town today but Karma asked the police if we could ride through the lane closed to cars that ran past the stadium where the peace prayers were taking place. The stadium was at a lower elevation and open to the street. This afforded a great view inside where up to 70,000 monks and devotees from all over the world were blissing out. The amount of visitors is equivalent to the population of Thimphu – not sure where folks are sleeping!

Today’s destination is the town of Punakha via the Dochu La pass at an elevation of 3150 m/10,300 ft. After clearing most of the city traffic, coffee!

It was a stellar ride – I availed myself of all the low gears and plowed through huffing and puffing all the way – the pace allowed you to take in the stunning views. Of course there were tea breaks but I did not walk my bike once. Thanks to my watch I tracked my blood oxygen saturation through the ride and it held a steady 96%. I was very surprised and very pleased with myself.

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After tea at the summit next to the 108 Chortens, it was a frozen white knuckle descent which I didn’t enjoy as much as the ascent. The dappled-shade-meets-pothole effect needed my full attention so no enjoying the landscape. An added hazard today was a troupe of cheeky monkeys.

I shed a few layers as we continued our descent to the Temple of the Divine Madman for a brief visit before they closed. Folks come here from near and far for fertility blessings – phalluses abound. Enjoyed some atmospheric chanting with drums and horns…hope I can find a recording somewhere.

Opted for the bus for the last short ride to another lovely tourist hotel – the time on the banks of the Puna Tsang Chu river.

Distance: 6.48 km

Elevation gain: 934 m

Elevation descent: 2100 m

Calories: 1769

Food has been good here so far – definitely catered to western tastes. Buffet includes rice, chicken dish, beef of pork dish, lots of veggies (cooked to perfection) then some odd dishes at each meal such as little battered fish pieces & chips or spaghetti noodles with veg. There is inevitably their national dish lurking off to the side: chillies with cheese sauce with or without veg. Delicious but fiery – the fiery stays on the tongue but not the throat though. Desert is something super sweet sometimes cake-y, sometimes fruity. All in all no complaints. Except the coffee. The hotel coffee tastes like it was made by Elly May Clampett…the Brits are finding the tea weak. First world problems! 🙂

The weather has been glorious. 8C in the mornings with a little misty cloud cover in the mountains so I start with a wind breaker and ditch it at the first stop. Then it’s a pleasant sunny ride in the high teens/low 20’s. The sun is super intense at this altitude – hope i have enough sun screen.

Because of the peace-prayer-palooza in town, we drove out of the city to avoid the traffic – our destination Cheri Monastery, founded in 1620, it is Bhutan’s first monastery. It has been closed for a number of years to repair earthquake damage and just reopened a few months ago. We are fortunate indeed. The idea is to ride up to the trailhead on one side of the river, trek up to the monastery, lunch at the chorten and cycle back down to town on the other side of the river.

The ride was steep! Many of us had to walk sections, gasping for breath – all the views being breathtaking didn’t help matters!

There are dogs everywhere here – about seven came and eyed our boxed lunches. lots of barking on our rides but no chasing, yet.

My legs were so shaky after descending that I passed on the return ride. I’m also having a hard time discerning potholes in dappled shade – even more concerning in downhill mode.

Our meet point with the riders was at this rather odd bridge. It’s a traditional style but made of concrete. Scratching my head over how the forces would be resolved.

Distance: 8.02

Elevation gain: 225 m

Calories: 184

Spectacular ride today along the Paro and Thimphu rivers. As part of the Global Peace Prayer Festival 2025, the route from the country’s only international airport in Paro to the capital Thimphu was lined with prayer flags. If I were riding alone I never would have gotten to Thimphu with all the photo ops!

The started out at a cool 8 degrees but warmed up nicely by the first tea stop at Tamchog Lhakhang Bridge. This 600 year old bridge built from hand forged iron chain, was reconstructed recently from salvaged and new materials after being washed away in the 60’s. Unfortunately it’s closed but the adjacent modern footbridge did not disappoint.

We turned left where the Paro and Thimphu converged to start a 35 km climb. I surprised myself but managing it even it was deep breathing much of the time – Thimphu is about 2300 m above sea level. I realize now how much the heat on previous rides affected my energy…

Well above the river we came across a cliff side petrol station with a dodgy looking building which I think had been condemned.

Karma and Tirin are doing an excellent job of keeping the group together and maintaining a pace that everyone can manage. Long tall Sally has been setting the pace but once she gets a seat post matched to her height I think it will be me. We loaded the bikes up at the edge of town and got back on the bus to avoid the peace prayer traffic.

Had a little afternoon break to change some money and peruse the craft stands followed by a sunset visit to Tashichho Dzong: fortress, monastery, royal residence and seat of Bhutan’s government

Distance: 43.91 km

Elevation gain: 395 m

Calories: 1251

Unsurprisingly, I feel more at home in the chaos of Kathmandu than the in the luxury of an oil rich Gulf State. The chaos falls somewhere above Indonesia (more dense) but below India (no cows, so far.) In spite of this, the traffic flows – people seem to show much more consideration for each other than I see in Toronto. Glad I’m not driving.

The hotel is only 15 minutes from the airport – it is an absolute oasis of calm.

My local guide met me at the airport with a khata (ceremonial scarf) as did the reception staff at the hotel. This is a Tibetan and, in Nepal also, Hindu custom given at certain events to signify honour and respect. Lovely touch. This hotel is a historical and cultural complex with fantastic salvaged and restored wood carved architectural features. There are several buildings organized around a courtyard with lots of vegetation, water features and song birds (okay, there are also pigeons so not perfect!) l’m almost regretting booking a tour this afternoon as I could easily spend the day taking photos. It very much reminds me of the Puri Suraswati Bungalows – also a heritage property – where I stayed in Ubud – similar courtyard and architectural styling but with more flamboyant embellishment.
This place is favoured by many south and south-east asian royals, Bollywood stars with a few of names I recognized from the west: Jimmy & Rosalind Carter and Adrian Brodie.

Not a bad place for breakfast!

In the afternoon it was off to Darbar Square…

…and then the Monkey temple.

Met a terrific group of folks in the evening all very excited about Bhutan – there will be 6 women, 2 men all good company. I hedged my bets and signed up to share a room but the other solo travellers paid for a single room so I get my single for free.

Just in case you were wondering how to write “Tim Horton’s” in Arabic…

I tried unsuccessfully last night to get my freebie hotel room changed to the in-terminal hotel. I was hoping of scoring some extra sleep time instead, I got private fancy-van transfer into town. The route was lined with every western fast food joint you could imagine including T.G.I. Fridays. I was scratching my head over this one as Friday is the holy day here when everything closes and alcohol isn’t served much anywhere outside of upscale western establishments.

I realize that the road from an airport is never a city’s best feature but still, I can’t say that I would ever want to spend anymore time here. The one building that interested me was the national museum designed by French architect Jean Nouvel (he also designed the Abu Dhabi Louvre that I visited last year.) Had the timing of my connection been different I would have gone…

Heading to Katmandu now with another glass of champagne and a tiny cup of spiced arabic coffee.

Wonder if this guy pushing the plane out from the gate knows there are forward facing cameras on board?

In my nerdy childhood I collected stamps. I was always intrigued by my Bhutan foil and space exploration lenticular stamps. When I learned that this tiny Himalayan country was closed to outsiders, had no TV and valued Gross National Happiness over GDP, I became even more intrigued and vowed to go there someday…that day is today.

This past year Qatar Airways started flying direct from Toronto to Doha so I mustered up the last of my Avios loyalty points and scored a Q-Suite seat (suite, really) and am jetting off to Kathmandu, pink champagne in hand, via Doha to meet up with my tour group. From there we’ll fly onward to Paro, Bhutan for a couple of weeks of high altitude cycling and cultural touring.

My fancy one-way fare sells for around $11,000 CAD (!) but i only paid $484. It has 3 windows, a lay flat seat with a mattress, a down duvet and a sliding door. I have a 16 hour layover in Doha and once your connection time is over 8 hours, Qatar Airways provides a free 4 star hotel room with a $70 CAD meal voucher. Sweet deal…oh, also worth mentioning that the fare includes carbon offset costs.

Dinner:

Balik style salmon with pumpkin and mascarpone mousseline

Wok-fried lobster tail with ginger and scallion

Selection of international cheeses

Warm maple fondant with caramelized apples