PAR – KTM – Bhutan, Land of the Thunder Dragon

The one benefit of getting up at 4a to get to the airport is that I got assigned a window seat on the right side of the plane – with a beauteous view of the Himalayas.

The pointy one to the right of the wing tip is Everest

What a lovely transition as I make my way back to the craziness of western life! I have had two weeks with no traffic lights, no sign of western brands and no political theater.

The royal family here is ridiculously attractive – the king sports sideburns that make him look like young Elvis. His equally attractive wife is, gasp, a commoner!

Pictures of the family abound everywhere: hotels, shops, banks, mountain passes, temples, homes and on and on. None of this is mandated – folks just revere them and it’s no wonder why.

Bhutan is very young as a country in its present form. The current monarchy was established in 1907 when King Uygen Wangchuck 1st Druk united regional dual-system districts. These were governed by both a religious and secular leader and they were operating rather independently from and, and perhaps at odds with each other.

The first 3 kings focussed on setting up the basics of running a country: taxes, defence, health, education, etc. King Jigme Singye 4th Druk embraced change, but on his own terms – or should I say on Buddhist terms. He introduced the idea of Gross National Happiness, opened up the country to tourism in a way that benefited everyone and then transitioned the country into a constitutional monarchy. To top it off, he abdicated to make way for the next generation of change. The current king, Jigme Khesar Namgyel 5th Druk, is continuing to develop the country in a measured manner that respects both the people and the environment. He has big plans for a development in southern Bhutan named Gelephu Mindfulness City. It’s a shrewd move on his part as both India and China have an eye on the largely unoccupied Southern area of the country. It made me a little sad when I first heard about the new airport that would accommodate any airline. Then again, given their track record, I think it could be remarkable.

“It will be a Mindfulness City, encompassing conscious and sustainable businesses, inspired by Buddhist spiritual heritage, and distinguished by the uniqueness of the Bhutanese identity.”

In a speech he made in honour of his father’s 70th birthday he presented a list of “12 Lessons from His Majesty Great Fourth to His Son, the Fifth King”

Bhutan is certainly not a rich country by western standards but I think it could very well be the most civilized one.

Caught up with my travel mates at the serene Dwarika‘s hotel in Kathmandu – just in time for the morning half-day city tour. It was Darbar square again but saw a whole bunch of different things this time…

…the Kumari (living goddess) residence was open today. The Kumari is controversial – there is just something hinky about declaring that a child is the manifestation of this or that – remember the obnoxious chubby lama? There are a number of Kumari in Nepal but the Kathmandu Kumari is the most important one. She is chosen from a specific community based on looks etc. and has to undergo a test of staying in a dark room overnight without freaking out. If recognized as being the vessel of the goddess, she lives a secluded life in her palace – her feet must never touch the commoner’s ground – blessing supplicants. Her tenure is up after first menstruation or after a major injury or blood loss. Sure sounds like child abuse. Conditions improved after this tell-all was published but, still.

I forgot who said that a pedestal is as much a prison as any small confined space. This “goddess” has both.