Bhutan, Land of the Thunder Dragon

“During landing the plane will turn sharply to the left. This is normal operational procedure. There is no need to be alarmed.” So said the pilot as we approached Paro. I knew about the tricky landing but found the message reassuring. Ten minutes later I looked out the right window and swore that I could touch the trees.

There is a very small pool of specially trained pilots who are permitted to land here – and only three airlines: Drukair, Royal Bhutan Airways and Bhutan Airlines. Paro is in a high altitude valley surrounded but some pretty tall mountains – they fly down one valley and bank sharply into the valley where the airport lies. From a viewpoint above the city today, I saw one plane pull this maneuver and swore it was corkscrewing into a crash.

Upon landing yesterday, the entire plane exited to the tarmac and took pictures of the plane – looks like everyone is as excited to be here as me. The terminal is nothing like I’ve encountered before – highly decorated, it sports the two most unique baggage carousels in the world.

We met up with our group leader, Karma, and got settled in our fantastic accommodations. I swear my cottage is larger than our condo.

In the afternoon it was a 2 km hike through the trees past buildings with chillies drying on the roofs up to a nunnery. I really felt the effects of the altitude change but persevered. With this group there isn’t any pressure to keep up. Stray dogs abound. We arrived to the sight of one laughing nun in burgundy robes chasing a dog around the whole yard.

We got to tour two monastery rooms (no cameras allowed of course) with a plethora of fantastic Thankas (tapestries,) buddhas, yak butter sculptures, masks, offerings and on and on. It was a riot of colours. One young nun offered us some cleansing saffron infused holy water. Poured in cupped hands, one took a sip and applied the rest to the forehead. It had a menthol taste and now, 24 hours later, I can attest it was potable as well as holy (fingers crossed.)

A perfect introduction.

Today was bike fitting day with a short ride to work out the kinks included. Bikes are well maintained Trek Enduras all the same size. This was to great dismay for Sally who at 6’-3”+ found the seat post too short.

It was a cool to start down a 2 km slope to Paro town where we flattened out for a while then started a long climb to Drukgyel Dzong. The pace was easy. We stopped to regroup and catch our breath periodically. At one of the rest stops I had a little panic attack when I saw the Tiger’s Nest Monastery for the first time in person and for the first time from a distance.

I had signed up for a 2 day trek after the cycling tour ends. The trek goes HIGHER than the monastery and then we descend to the monastery on day 2. The descent from the monastery looks like a killer.

Drukgyel Dzong was built in a strategic position relative to Tibet to stand ready to defend future invasions from their rival. We did a perimeter walk around only. It burned down in 1951 and doesn’t permit visitors inside anymore.

The downhill return to town was quite rewarding but I passed on the doing the last 2 km uphill to the hotel. Overall, I was very pleased with my cycling today.

We finished off the day with a stop at Dungtse Lhakhang temple (which has the world’s steepest stairs!) and a wander through some gift shops on the main drag.

Distance: 30.27 km

Ascent: 361m

Calories: 830